Southern Sunshine

Cross the Mason-Dixon line, and you’re treading on spiritual soil. That deep, hollow sound you hear? The South’s heartbeat, a staccato Bible thump. The fervor pervades through everything—there’s even a holy trinity of Southern cooking: fried, grits, and gravy. (Yes, “fried” is a noun in these parts.) They don’t call it soul food for nothing.

Nathan’s from the pocket-size state of Rhode Island, and he’s probably only survived in Alabama this long because he likes loves grits. At first, he’d only eat them in the secrecy of our home, stirring in fat pats of salted butter and fistfuls of cheese. Now, he’s a bit evangelical, presenting the coarse ground corn to his parents during our visits with the zeal of Moses descending from Mt. Sinai, commandments in tow.

OK, I may be exaggerating just a little. But ye of little faith who forsake grits, prepare to be converted. These are wrapped in a crunchy crust and pan-fried, the centers creamy and melty-smooth. Top that with a fried egg and mushroom gravy, and you have a little bit of heaven on a plate. Go ahead, try it … and get ready to spread the good news.

Southern Sunshine
Prepare grits according to package directions, then smooth out into a baking dish (see above). You can refrigerate them until you’re ready to get cooking. My favorite comes from Nora Mill, a granary in the North Georgia Mountains. At less than $5 for a 2-pound bag of “Georgia Ice Cream,” it’s a steal.

4 ounces sliced mushrooms
1/4 onion, chopped
11/4 cup flour, plus more if needed for batter
1/4 cup butter or oil, plus more for frying eggs
1 cup mushroom or chicken stock
Dashes hot sauce
Salt and pepper, to taste
6 eggs, divided
1–2 cups crushed matzoh crackers or breadcrumbs
3–4 cups prepared grits, refrigerated overnight
Vegetable oil, for frying
Green onions, for garnish

1. Sauté mushrooms and onion in a skillet until soft and golden; set aside in a bowl.
2. Add 1/4 cup flour and 1/4 cup butter to skillet, and cook over low heat, stirring occasionally. (The mixture will be slightly clumpy and thick.) Cook and stir until roux reaches the color of a copper penny; add stock and onions and mushrooms, including juices, to pan, and whisk to combine. Season with hot sauce and salt and pepper; cook gravy over low heat.
3. Meanwhile, place 1 cup flour; 2 eggs, lightly beaten; and crushed crackers in three separate bowls. Slice chilled grits into rectangles about half the length of a deck of playing cards. Warm 1/4–1/2 inch oil in a large saucepan over medium heat.
4. Drip grit rectangles, one at a time, in flour, eggs, then crackers, coating well; set battered grits on a plate.
5. When oil is ready (drop a bit of cracker or breadcrumbs in it … they should quickly fry up but not pop), carefully drop grit rectangles, in batches, into oil. Fry 3–4 minutes or until crust starts to brown; flip to fry opposite side. Remove grit cakes from oil and onto a baking sheet fitted with a wire rack. Place in oven to keep warm.
6. While last batch of grits are cooking, heat a pat of butter in a frying pan until melted and bubbly. Crack remaining eggs into pan, and fry until desired level of doneness (we like the yolks bright yellow and runny).
7. Divide grit cakes evenly among bowls. Top with a fried egg, and spoon gravy on top. Garnish with green onions, if desired. John Deere plates optional.